Spinning Reel

An open-face reel with a fixed spool and a bail that lays line via a rotating rotor; the default choice for light lines, small baits, and backlash-free casting.

Also known as: Spinning Reel · spinning reel · open-face reel · eggbeater · spin reel

The finesse engine of bass fishing: every drop shot, Ned, Neko, wacky and jerkbait bite starts on a 2500 spinning reel.

  • 2500 is THE bass size; 3000 for power finesse, 1000-2000 for trout and panfish
  • Spool type is the real choice: shallow = PE-only finesse, standard = all-round, deep = long or heavy PE
  • Line twist is the enemy — PE main line, short fluoro leader, a swivel when the bait spins
  • Max retrieve = π × spool Ø × ratio: a 45 mm spool at 6.2:1 pulls 88 cm per turn

A spinning reel mounts under the rod with the spool facing forward and a wire bail that flips to release line on the cast. Line peels off the fixed spool in coils rather than being pulled off a rotating one, which is why it can cast lightweight lures and thin lines without the backlash risk that plagues baitcasters. That same fixed-spool design is also its main limitation: it has less cranking power and torque than a baitcaster, and heavy braid or big crankbaits can cause line twist or wind knots if the reel or technique isn't matched well.

Compared with low-profile and round baitcasters, spinning gear is the go-to when castability with light line matters more than raw power — finesse rigs (drop shot, shaky head, wacky rig, Ned rig), small jigs, light Texas rigs, topwater walking baits in windless conditions, and any presentation under about 12 lb line. It's also far more forgiving for anglers still building thumb control, since there's no spool to overrun.

Sizes for bass fishing typically run 1000 to 4000; smaller numbers suit finesse line diameters and shorter casts, larger numbers hold more line and heavier mono/braid for moving baits or offshore finesse work with heavier weights. Gear ratios cluster in the 5.0:1–6.2:1 range, which is plenty since spool diameter (not just ratio) drives retrieve speed. Reach for a spinning reel whenever bait weight or line diameter drops below what a baitcaster can comfortably cast, or whenever backlash-free casting in wind, current, or from an awkward angle is the priority.

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FAQ

Why does my line twist into coils after half an hour on a spinning reel?

A fixed spool lays line on with a rotor, so every turn of the handle adds one twist to the line; the bail arm adds more, and a lure that spins (any blade, a badly rigged fluke, a swivel-less drop shot) adds the rest. Fluorocarbon and nylon hold that twist because they have memory — they coil, jump off the spool and wind-knot. This is why a spinning reel NEVER gets a straight fluorocarbon or nylon main line. The fixes, in order: (1) a thin PE main line — braid has no memory and absorbs the twist; (2) a small ball-bearing swivel between the PE main line and a SHORT fluorocarbon leader; (3) a swivel right in front of the hook, or a hook / drop-shot hook with its own swivel; (4) let the whole line trail behind the boat for a minute with nothing tied on to unwind.

Can I fill a spinning reel with fluorocarbon or nylon as the main line?

No — on any size, any spool type. The twist described above turns a full spool of fluoro or nylon into an unusable bird's nest within a session. Fluorocarbon belongs on the leader (1-2.5 m) tied to a PE main line, and nylon has no place on a bass spinning reel at all — it stretches like a rubber band. The only reason the makers still print nylon capacities is that the industry has always labelled spools that way.

Shallow, standard or deep spool — which one should I buy?

Shallow (S / SS) if the reel is for finesse on PE 0.4-1.0 — the spool fills with 100-200 m of PE with no backing, casts farther and retrieves more per turn because the line always sits at the lip. Standard for PE 0.8-1.5 all-round work with a short backing. Deep (D) only when you need 250-300 m of PE for big water, trolling or deep vertical work, or PE 2-4 for swimbaits and pike. Shallow spools are made only on 3000 and below.

2500 or 3000 for bass?

2500 is the bass spinning size: PE 0.6-1.0, 6-10 lb leader, drop shot, Ned, Neko, wacky, shaky head, jerkbaits, weightless plastics. Move to 3000 when the line goes to PE 1.2-1.5 (power finesse, light swimbaits, topwater on braid) or the fish are 4 lb smallmouth in current and pike are around. Note that a Shimano C3000 is a 2500 body with a bigger spool — it fishes like a 2500 with more line.

What do the S, SS, M, D, C, HG, XG, PG letters mean?

S = shallow spool, SS = super-shallow, M = medium, D = deep (Daiwa), no letter = standard. C = compact: a larger spool on a smaller body (Shimano C3000 = 3000 spool on a 2500 body; Daiwa LT3000-C likewise). HG = high gear (≈5.8-6.0:1), XG / XH = extra-high (≈6.2-6.4:1), PG / P = power gear (≈4.6-5.2:1). Shimano also prints spool diameter and stroke (47 mm / 17 mm on a 2500S).

Gear ratio: high speed or low speed?

For bass finesse the ratio matters less than on a baitcaster because the 45-48 mm spool already gives 74-88 cm per turn. Take the standard / HG ratio (5.2-6.0:1) as the default; XG / XH (6.2+) if you burn jerkbaits, pick up slack fast on drop shot bites or fish topwater on braid; PG (4.6-5.2) only for deep cranking, heavy swimbaits or big saltwater fish where torque beats speed. Max retrieve = π × spool diameter × ratio, and that is the number to compare, not the ratio.

How full should I load the spool?

PE: to 1-2 mm below the lip. Fuller casts farther but throws loops (wind knots) on the cast; emptier costs distance and retrieve. Fill under tension — wet the line or run it through a cloth — so the wraps do not bed into each other. On a standard or deep spool, put nylon backing on first so the PE reaches the right level without wasting braid, and so the braid cannot slip on the arbor.

Why does braid slip and spin on the spool under drag?

Braid has no grip on a bare aluminium arbor. Either lay 10-20 m of nylon backing first and tie the braid to it with a uni-to-uni knot, or put a single wrap of electrical tape on the arbor, or use an arbor knot with two overhand stoppers pulled tight. Some spools have a rubber "braid-ready" band that does the same job.

What are wind knots and how do I stop them?

A wind knot is a loop of slack line that leaves the spool on the cast and pulls into a knot at the guides. Causes: spool overfilled, line twist, a loose wrap laid after a slack retrieve, casting into the wind with a limp line. Prevention: fill to 1-2 mm under the lip, close the bail by hand and pull the line tight before the first turn, keep tension on every retrieve (lift the rod when a lure falls), and fix the twist with the PE-plus-swivel setup above.

Should I close the bail by hand or with the handle?

By hand, always, then pull the line snug before the first crank. Closing with the handle flips the bail with slack line behind it — that slack becomes the loose wrap that causes the next wind knot, and the impact wears the bail-trip mechanism.

Why does the drag stick or jerk instead of running smoothly?

Dry or contaminated drag washers (carbon or felt), a spool that was stored with the drag cranked down, or a rusted drag spring. Open the drag knob, wipe the washers, re-grease carbon washers with drag grease (never oil on felt), and store the reel with the drag backed off. A drag that sticks on a 6 lb leader is a lost fish.

Does a bigger spool really cast farther?

Yes, on the same line: a larger diameter releases line in bigger, gentler coils that rub the guides less (Daiwa LT and Shimano moved to larger, shallower spools for that reason). The rest of casting distance is line diameter (PE 0.6 beats PE 1.0 by metres), how full the spool is, rod length and lure weight — all bigger effects than the reel brand.

Left-hand or right-hand retrieve?

Most right-handed anglers cast and hold the rod with the right hand and crank with the left — no hand-switching after the cast, which matters on finesse baits where the first seconds of the fall are the bite. Every spinning reel handle swaps sides in a minute; there is no "correct" side.

Can I use a spinning reel in salt water?

Freshwater bass reels (Zaion / CI4+ bodies, unsealed bearings) survive occasional inshore use if rinsed with fresh water after every trip and never dunked. For regular salt use buy a reel with a sealed body and drag (Daiwa Magsealed, Shimano Coreprotect / X-Protect, Penn Battle / Spinfisher). Salt in an unsealed drag or line roller is the usual cause of the grinding you hear a month later.

The reel grinds or feels rough — what is worn?

In order of likelihood: a dry or corroded line roller bearing (the tiny bearing on the bail — the most neglected part and also a line-twist cause), grit under the rotor, a dry handle-knob bearing, and only then the main gear or pinion. Oil the line roller and handle knob every few trips; grease the main gear once a season; do not open a Magsealed reel yourself.

How do I match the reel to the rod?

By line, not by size number: the reel must hold the PE the rod is rated for at the right fill (a 2500 shallow for a PE 0.6-1.0 finesse rod, a 3000-4000 for a PE 1.5-2.5 swimbait rod), and the balance point with the reel mounted should sit near the front of the reel seat so the tip does not feel heavy on a long finesse rod. A 6'10"-7' medium-light fast rod with a 2500 is the bass finesse standard.

Why is the line piling up at one end of the spool?

Line lay is set by washers under the spool. Line piling at the top (lip) means the spool sits too high — remove a washer; piling at the bottom means add one. Uneven lay causes loops on the cast and lost distance. Reels come with spare washers in the box for exactly this.

Does the reel's weight matter?

Less than the balance and the spool. A 175 g and a 210 g 2500 fish the same on a 7' rod if the balance point is right; what you feel all day is a tip-heavy combo, not 35 g. Pay for a smoother drag, a better line roller and the right spool type before paying for grams.

Further reading