What actually separates a good braid from a cheap one?
Compare finished dimensions, knot strength, weave stability, wear and labelling standards. Price, origin and carrier count are not test results; PE number is not measured diameter.
The full story
This answer is one piece of a longer lesson — setups, diagrams and the reasoning behind it.
More questions about Lines
- Why does one "20 lb" braid feel twice as thick as another?
- Is Japanese PE and North American braid the same material?
- Why is precision PE so much more expensive?
- x4 or x8?
- How do PE numbers work, and what do they convert to?
- Does PE float or sink?
- My braid fuzzed and faded within a month — is it worn out?
- Do I always need a leader on PE?
- Soft or stiff fluorocarbon for the leader?
- Is fluorocarbon really invisible?
- Why does fluorocarbon "feel" low-stretch when it stretches as much as nylon to break?
- Are pink or green fluorocarbons a gimmick?
- What colour PE should I use?
- Is nylon monofilament still useful?
- Why is nylon wrong for finesse rigs?
- What is "fluorocarbon-coated" or "hybrid" line?
- What is ester line?
- What is fused superline (Fireline-type)?
- My fluorocarbon main line coils and jumps off the spool.
- Fluorocarbon keeps breaking at the knot.
- How do I pick pound test?
- How often should I change line?
- Does PE damage rod guides, and why does it sing?
- Which line in wind?
- Which line in cold water?
- What line for Ned, drop shot and shaky head?
- What line for frogs, punching and flipping?
- What line for jerkbaits, crankbaits and swimbaits?
- How long should the leader be, and which knot?