Jig hooks and jig heads: Weedguard length and trimming

Question	Rule	Why
How long	Cut so the guard ends just past the hook point, about 3–5 mm (1/8–3/16") beyond it	Long enough to deflect a branch, short enough to fold on a bite
Angle	Guard should sit slightly above the point, not far above	A guard that stands 15 mm (5/8") above the point needs a hard sweep to fold
Cut straight or angled	Angled, sloping down toward the point	The angled tip catches less and folds easier
Open water	Trim to the point or pull the guard out	Nothing to deflect; every bristle costs hook-ups
Wood, docks	Full length, full thickness	Branches are what it is for
Rock	Two-thirds of the bristles, ends just past the point	Rock needs little guard; hook-ups need a soft one
Grass	Full length, thinned a little, fanned	Grass slides off a fanned guard

← Tuning a jig · Modifying the weedguard →

Jig hooks and jig heads

Hooks whose shank bends at the eye so a head can be poured on: the bare jig hook, and weighted jig heads for soft plastics classified by head shape and build (ball in four builds, strolling jigs by mechanism, football, swing, stand-up, Ned in four builds, shaky, darter, swimbait, underspin, tube, weedless, grass), because each fishes differently; and the skirted jig itself, by head shape (casting, flipping, football, swim, finesse, punch).

Jig hooks and jig heads