What hook size should I use, and what is the logic?
Sizes #6 to #8 for most work, down to #10 on tough bites — and the logic is the throat, not the mouth. A perch can flare its jaws around a surprisingly large item, but the peck-and-suck delivers food through a narrow throat, and a hook with too much wire and gap simply never makes it inside during the brief commitment pull; you feel taps forever and hook nothing. Small, light-wire hooks ride into the mouth with the suction, and with light line and a smooth lift they hold better than their size suggests. When taps will not turn into weight, dropping one hook size is the single highest-percentage change you can make.
The full story
This answer is one piece of a longer lesson — setups, diagrams and the reasoning behind it.
More questions about How it strikes
- I feel tap-tap-tap and miss every time. What am I doing wrong?
- Deadstick or jigging — which cadence actually catches perch?
- Why do perch keep biting the tail off my minnow?
- When exactly should I swing?
- How does a yellow perch fight once hooked, and how do I land the jumbos?
- Will perch follow a jig up off bottom — even to the ice hole?
Same topic, other species
- Why does a slow-falling jig out-fish a fast one? — Crappie
- Why am I getting short strikes that only nip the tail? — Largemouth Bass
- Why do I miss so many muskie? — Muskellunge (Muskie)
- Single hooks or trebles for pike? — Northern Pike
- Why is the smallmouth bite on a tube or drop shot just a faint "tick"? — Smallmouth Bass
- Why do lake trout follow my lure all the way up without hitting? — Trout (Rainbow · Brook · Lake)
- How fast should I troll for walleye? — Walleye