Texas Rig

A bullet weight ahead of a soft plastic on a hook whose point is buried back into the bait — the weedless bottom rig every bass angler owns, tunable from a weightless flutter to a mat-punching brick.

Also known as: Texas Rig · T-rig · Texas-rigged worm · peg-and-worm · weedless worm rig · bullet weight rig · Tex-posed · texposed

The most-fished bass rig in the world: one offset hook, one bullet weight, and every soft plastic ever made.

  • Always an offset (Texas) hook — the point buried in the bait is what makes it weedless
  • The weight decides everything: pegged for cover, sliding for open bottom, weightless for the fall
  • Hook size follows bait length: 3/0 finesse for 3.5 in, 6/0-8/0 heavy for 7 in+
  • Lost fish are a rigging problem first, a hookset problem second

A Texas rig is three parts on one line: a cone-shaped bullet weight that slides on the main line, then the hook, then a soft plastic threaded up the shank with the point buried back into its body. Because nothing sticks out, it goes through wood, rock, grass and mats that an open hook or a jig cannot — and because the parts are separate, every one of them is a knob you can turn.

Those knobs are what the family is really about. The weight sets fall speed and where the rig lives: 1/16 oz (1.8 g) barely sinks a worm, 1.5 oz (43 g) drives a bait through a floating mat. Tungsten is smaller and harder than lead, telegraphs bottom better and slides through grass cleaner. Pegged (a bobber stop against the weight) the rig is one compact unit that enters cover and stays together; free-sliding, the weight lands first and the bait glides down behind it, which draws bites in open water and on sparse cover. The hook is always an offset hook — the Z-bend behind the eye is what holds the bait straight and lets the point bury — but it comes in several builds, and the build follows the bait: light-wire finesse for small baits on spinning gear, a round-bend worm hook for slim worms, a wide gap (EWG) for bulky creatures, craws, stick baits and flukes, heavy wire for flipping and punching on braid, a screw-lock or keel-weighted swimbait hook for paddle tails, and a shank-weighted hook — lead moulded onto the shank, hidden inside the bait, no bullet — for a fluke or swim worm that needs a little sink without losing the weightless look. Below the hook, the bait's profile — slim worm, bulky craw, stick bait, paddle tail — is the last knob, and it also decides the knot: a fluke on a loop knot darts, a fluke on a Palomar does not.

Reach for a Texas rig whenever bass are on the bottom or in cover and you need to put a bait in their spot and leave it there. It is the default answer on laydowns, docks, brush, riprap, ledges and every kind of grass, in every season, for both bass. It is not a search bait — it covers water slowly — and it is not for fish suspended off the bottom in open water, where a jerkbait, swimbait or drop shot beats it. Its one real weakness is the hookset: a buried point on heavy plastic needs a hard, upward set on a rod with backbone, and a too-big hook on a too-slim bait costs fish.

Products for this rig

Variants

  • Standard Texas Rig — A 1/4-3/8 oz bullet weight, a 3/0-4/0 hook and a 5-7 in worm or creature — the all-purpose bottom rig for moderate cover on casting gear.
  • Finesse Texas Rig — A 1/16-3/16 oz bullet weight, light-wire hook and a 3-4 in bait on spinning gear — the Texas rig scaled down for clear, cold or pressured water.
  • Flipping Texas Rig (Creature/Craw) — A compact creature or craw on a pegged 3/8-1/2 oz weight and a heavy hook, pitched and flipped to isolated shallow cover on heavy line.
  • Punch Rig — A 3/4-1.5 oz pegged tungsten weight, heavy flipping hook and a compact bait on 50-65 lb braid, built to drop straight through matted vegetation.
  • Weightless Texas Rig — No weight at all — a stick bait or soft jerkbait Tex-posed on a wide-gap hook, falling and darting on its own weight through the top 1.5 m (5 ft) of the water column.
  • Swimming Texas Rig (Swim Worm) — A paddle-tail swim worm or swimbait Texas-rigged on a light pegged bullet and reeled steadily through and over grass — a weedless swimbait for vegetation.

Why fish are lost

  • missed-set — Set on slack line — the rod moved, the hook did not — Reel down until you feel the fish, then drive upward; the set starts when the line is tight, not when the rod moves
  • missed-set — A sideways sweep on a buried point — A Texas rig wants an upward, hard, full-stroke set; the sweep is for exposed hooks and moving baits
  • missed-set — Point buried too deep — Tex-posed under a thick skin of plastic it cannot punch through — Pop the point through and re-bury it under a paper-thin skin, or skin-hook it
  • missed-set — Point dulled on rock or wood — Test the point on a fingernail every few casts; sharpen or retie a fresh hook
  • missed-set — Bait too thick for the gap — plastic fills the gap and the point never reaches the jaw — Size the gap to the body, not the length: a fat bait goes up a size or to a wide-gap (EWG) build
  • missed-set — Bite noticed late — the fish had already spat it — Watch the line, rod at 10 o'clock, line semi-slack not slack; in wind or depth go to braid with a leader
  • missed-set — Short strike — the fish only had the tail — Wait a one-count on the next bite, trim the tail, downsize to a compact profile
  • missed-set — Rod too soft or too moderate — it loads up instead of driving the point — Medium-heavy or heavy, fast action, for any weighted Texas rig
  • missed-set — Mono stretch, or a long cast's stretch, ate the set — Fluorocarbon or braid; move closer; a longer rod for deep sets
  • on-then-off — Set too early — the bait was only in the lips — Reel down, feel weight, then set; on a slow bite give it a one-count
  • on-then-off — Hook too small for the bait — a lip hook that tears out — Size the hook to the bait length and make sure the point clears the plastic
  • on-then-off — No follow-through — one soft set, then slack — One hard set and keep the rod loaded; never pump slack into the line
  • on-then-off — Bait slid down the shank on the cast and balled in the gap — Bait keeper, screw-lock, a drop of glue at the head, or an O-ring / bobber stop at the eye
  • on-then-off — Light line on a heavy-wire hook — not enough force to bury the barb — Match line to hook wire: light wire on 12 lb and under, heavy wire on 17 lb plus or braid
  • on-then-off — A heavy pegged weight acting as a lever in the mouth — Free-slide the weight where cover allows; tungsten (smaller) or a lighter weight
  • thrown-jump — Rod high on the jump — slack and leverage handed to the fish — Rod tip low, even in the water, and keep reeling through the jump
  • thrown-jump — A heavy weight whipping on the jump and ripping the hole open — Lighter weight, free-sliding, or lead the fish down on a tight line before it jumps
  • thrown-jump — Light-wire hook opened on a big fish or heavy line — Heavy wire whenever you fish over 15 lb line
  • thrown-jump — Smallmouth head-shake — a lip hook lasts one shake — Set hard upward so the point is in the roof of the mouth, then constant pressure, no slack
  • pulled-mid-fight — Drag locked — the hook tore out on a surge — Set the drag to slip on a hard run; thumb the spool for the set only
  • pulled-mid-fight — Slack during the fight — the fish ran at the boat — Reel fast and keep the rod bent; a 7.1:1 or faster reel around close cover
  • pulled-mid-fight — Barb never buried — the set stopped at the barb — Harder set, sharper point, thinner skin over the point
  • pulled-mid-fight — Line abraded on rock or wood, then gave on a pull — Check the last metre often; retie every few fish around rock
  • broke-knot — Knot not wet or not seated — fluorocarbon burned itself — Wet it, seat it slowly, test-pull; Palomar on fluoro, snell on braid
  • broke-knot — Wrong knot for the line — a clinch on braid, a Palomar forced through a big bait on heavy fluoro — The knot follows line and bait: Palomar, San Diego jam, snell, or a loop
  • broke-knot — Old line — sun, memory and a season of nicks — Respool fluorocarbon every season and after any abrasion day
  • broke-line — Too light for the cover — 15-17 lb around wood and rock; 20 lb fluoro or 50-65 lb braid in mats and reeds
  • broke-line — Let the fish reach the cover and wrap — Set and pull the fish AWAY from the cover in the first two seconds; that is what the heavy rod is for
  • broke-line — Weight wedged in rock during the fight — Free-sliding and tungsten; hop, don't drag, on riprap
  • lost-at-boat — Short line, high rod, no shock left in the system — Rod low and loaded, back the drag off at the boat, lip or net it head-first
  • lost-at-boat — Hole worn open by a long fight on a big hook — Land it fast; a Texas-rig fish is not played
  • bait-balled — Bait threaded crooked or too far up the shank — Thread straight, exit at the point that lets the bait lie flat, point in the belly not the back
  • bait-balled — Salted soft plastic tears at the head — Bait keeper or screw-lock; TPE bodies where you need durability
  • short-strike — Appendages or a long tail too far from the hook — Trim the appendages, go compact, drop a size
  • short-strike — Cold or post-front fish barely holding the bait — Wait, lighter weight, deadstick, a smaller finesse hook
  • buried-in-cover — Fish turned and buried before the set finished — Set and lift in one motion; heavy line, braid in grass; rod high AFTER the set to lift it above the cover
  • buried-in-cover — Rod too short or too soft to lift a fish out of cover — 7'3"-7'6" heavy for flipping, 7'6"-8' extra-heavy for punching

Comparisons

Further reading

Related chapters