Non-Slip Loop Knot (Kreh)

A fixed loop at the eye that lets lures and flies swing freely. Versatile terminal loop for mono and fluoro; adjust wraps by diameter.

Also known as: Non-Slip Loop Knot (Kreh)

A knot is the weakest point on the line: the right knot, tied wet and seated slowly, keeps most of the line's strength.

Palomar for hooks on PE and fluoro; FG for PE-to-leader; loop knot for jerkbaits and flukes
Wet it, seat it slowly, test it — every time
Retie after every big fish and every snag
A swivel beats a knot when the bait spins

Purpose and when NOT to use

The Non-Slip Loop Knot (often called the Kreh Loop) is a terminal loop knot that leaves a fixed-size loop ahead of the lure, fly, or hook eye. The loop decouples the bait from the line so it can swing, glide, and pivot freely—excellent for jerkbaits, glide baits, topwater walkers, streamers, and light-wire jigs. It shines with monofilament and fluorocarbon leaders when you want action without adding a split ring.

Do not use it where you need a tight clinch to the eye for precise tracking (e.g., crankbaits already rigged on a quality split ring), for heavy punching/flipping where the hook should stay in-line (use a Snell on a straight-shank hook), or as a leader-join knot (use a dedicated join). Avoid large, abrasive wire eyes or rough paint lips that can saw the loop under tension. It’s a terminal loop, not a spool knot; for spooling, use an Arbor Knot.

In braid direct to a lure this knot can creep because slick fibers don’t bite as well. If you must tie a braided loop, consider the Rapala Loop or insert a short mono/fluoro leader joined properly, then tie this loop to the lure.

Verified path reference: Non-Slip Mono Knot — Animated Knots

Tying sequence

Standing line means the load-bearing line to the reel; a tag is the free end; a bight is a fold, not a cut end.

Tie a loose overhand knot in the line, leaving a generous tag. Pass the tag through the lure eye.
Bring the tag back through the original overhand opening, entering from the side where it came out before going through the lure eye. Leave the desired free loop between knot and lure.
Wind the tag around the standing line about four or five times for a medium-diameter starting example. Keep the turns aligned.
Return the tag through the overhand opening from the side it emerged from after step 2. Keep this routing distinct from the Rapala knot, which has an additional tuck.
Wet the line and control the loop size while dressing and seating the knot. Load standing line and loop steadily; confirm the loop remains fixed rather than tightening onto the lure eye.
Trim the free tag after a pull-test. Do not add an improvised half-hitch or an extra return through the overhand opening to this standard construction.

Illustrated line-path reference

Inspection and controlled pull-test

Alignment: Wraps should lay neatly in order with no overlaps. The loop should be round and centered; the legs must not cross.
Overhand seating: The overhand should nest against the wrap stack without inverting. If the overhand flips or crushes, re-tie.
Tag security: A short nub should remain after loading; if it continues to creep under moderate pull, add a wrap or re-tie.
Controlled pulls: Perform two staged pulls. First, a moderate hand pull with the lure in your palm, pinching the loop to hold its size. Second, a firmer pull with the line around a padded dowel or gloved hand. Increase steadily—no yanking. Never use bare-finger high-tension wraps or teeth. If the loop deforms severely or the wraps separate, cut and re-tie.

Mono/fluoro/braid and diameter differences

Monofilament: Forgiving. Start with 4–5 wraps on light mono (4–10 lb), 3–4 on mid (12–20 lb), 2–3 on heavy (25+). Softer mono tolerates an extra wrap.
Fluorocarbon: Stiffer and slicker. Use slightly more wraps than mono of the same diameter (e.g., 5–6 on light fluoro). Dress slowly with ample lubrication. Leave a slightly longer tag.
Braid: Slippage risk, especially thin braid. If you must tie this loop in braid, increase the wrap count substantially (e.g., 7–9 as a start). Preferably, join braid to a short mono/fluoro leader with a proper join, then tie the Non-Slip Loop to the lure.
Diameter effect: As diameter increases, reduce wraps for compactness and bite; as it decreases, add wraps for friction. These are starting examples—validate with pull tests.

Concrete fishing scenarios and alternative knots

Walk-the-dog topwaters and jerkbaits on mono/fluoro leaders: The loop frees the bait without a split ring. If you want a stiffer loop profile that resists collapse, try the Rapala Loop.
Streamers and small hair jigs: The loop lets flies jiggle and glide naturally. Short loop for faster response; longer loop for a wider arc.
Glide baits and light swimbaits tied direct to the eye: Use when you need articulation. If the bait already has a quality split ring, a tight terminal such as a Palomar or San Diego Jam to the ring may track straighter.
Heavy cover flipping/punching: Not ideal. Use a Snell on a straight-shank hook, with wraps oriented so the hook kicks out on the hookset. Flipping, frogging, and punching impose different load/cover demands—select hardware and knots accordingly.
Leader joins (brief guidance): This knot is terminal, not a joiner. For braid-to-fluoro, the FG relies on alternating crossings of the braid over the leader kept under steady tension; hold the braid in a V, pass the leader alternately under each leg, temporarily lock, then strongly seat the braid grips before any trimming; finish with a proper locking sequence (e.g., Rizzuto or half-hitches onto the leader). Do not use teeth, do not burn tags, and don’t invent shortcuts. The Alberto uses a forward-and-return wrap around the leader loop, with the braid tag exiting on the same side it entered. The classic Albright wraps in one direction only and the tag exits the same side; if you see a return wrap, that’s an Alberto, not an Albright. Blood, J-Knot, and Surgeon’s are options for mono-to-mono/fluoro, but the Blood is not a default for braid-to-leader.
Tight terminal alternatives: Palomar (keep the doubled strands uncrossed over the lure) and San Diego Jam (add wraps for braid) both work well when you want a direct, tight connection.

On-water failure diagnosis and practice

Common failure signs and fixes:

Loop shrank or flattened: Wrap count too low for the line, or dressing pulled the loop smaller. Re-tie with 1–2 more wraps and pinch the loop while seating. Consider the Rapala Loop for a stiffer loop.
Creep on glossy fluoro: Add a wrap, lubricate well, and dress slowly. Leave a longer tag and inspect after a few fish.
Abrasion at the loop leg: Eye is rough. Smooth the eye, use a split ring, or switch to a tight terminal knot. Re-tie frequently around rocks/metal.
Uneven or crossed coils: Cut and re-tie. This knot depends on parallel coils biting the overhand. Dress slowly with lubrication.
Break near the overhand: Overheated or crushed during seating. Lubricate more, seat steadily, avoid yanking. Reduce wraps on very stiff/heavy lines.

Practice plan:

Bench practice with 60–90 cm tags on different mono/fluoro diameters. Tie 5 repetitions each, vary wrap counts, and perform controlled pull tests against a padded post.
Blindfold drill: Tie by feel to learn wrap control and loop sizing—useful in low light.
Cross-training with related knots: Palomar (keep doubles uncrossed), San Diego Jam (counted wraps, orderly snug-down), Rapala Loop (more structured loop), and leader joins FG (alternating braid crossings under continuous tension; seat before trimming; finish with a proper lock) and Alberto (same-side tag exit; distinguish from single-direction Albright).