How should I work a jig for walleye — snap it or drag it?
Let water temperature and fish mood set the cadence, and let the fish vote. Cold water and neutral fish want the quiet end of the dial: slow lift-drop-pause cycles, drags along bottom, long holds where the pause — not the movement — draws the bite. Warm water, wind, and competing schools of fish invert it: snap-jigging and aggressive rips trigger reaction strikes from walleye that would ignore a crawl, and often select for bigger fish. The strike almost always comes on the drop or the pause, whatever the cadence, so control the fall and keep a semi-tight line through it. Start moderate, then work both directions in the first half hour — the fish's answer is usually unambiguous.
The full story
This answer is one piece of a longer lesson — setups, diagrams and the reasoning behind it.
More questions about How it strikes
- What does a walleye bite actually feel like?
- Why do walleye keep biting my minnow in half — and what is a stinger hook?
- How fast should I troll for walleye?
- Circle hook or octopus hook for live-bait walleye rigs?
- What does a walleye do once hooked, and how should I play it?
- Do walleye follow a lure and hit at the boat or right under the ice hole?
Same topic, other species
- Why do I keep missing fish when I lift the jig? — Crappie
- What exactly is a "reaction strike"? — Largemouth Bass
- How do you get a hookset through a big rubber bait? — Muskellunge (Muskie)
- Why do perch keep biting the tail off my minnow? — Yellow Perch
- Do I really need a wire leader every single time? — Northern Pike
- What is a "reaction strike" and why does banging rocks trigger it? — Smallmouth Bass
- Why do I get so many short strikes and bumped lures? — Trout (Rainbow · Brook · Lake)